Cyprus is the third island in the Mediterranean, comprising an area of 9,251sq km. The island is characterised by considerable diversity of scenery, ranging from flat plains, a few metres above sea level, to lofty mountainous areas reaching a height of 1951 metres. A large number of geomorphological features, like raised beaches, tombolos, sea cliffs and sea caves, cuestas, ravines and gorges, river captures, coastal sand dunes, beautiful tiny isles and, above all, fine and coarse-grained sandy beaches are encountered. A great variety of rocks, belonging to different geological eras and ranging from sedimentary to metamorphic and igneous, with their hardness, colour and texture affect the relief, lending a distinct colour to the landscape of Cyprus.

The natural vegetation, influenced by the island’s position among three continents, is rich and varied with a number of endemic plants. Equally significant is the fauna of the island, with its unique moufflons roaming in herds in the forests of Pafos and Troodos. Moreover, millions of migratory birds use Cyprus as a stopover in their movement from the cold north-European countries to the warm countries of the African continent, and vice versa, during autumn, winter and spring.

What, however, makes Cyprus a very attractive and fascinating country for the foreign visitor, is its long and tempestuous history, dating back to the Neolithic times. Recent excavations at Shillourokambos, north of Amathous in Limassol district, place the neolithic era in Cyprus at 8200 B.C. Besides, all conquerors and settlers have left their imprints on the surface of the island. Every span of land in Cyprus has something to reveal to the visitor, local or foreign. It has often been written, that nowhere else in the world will the visitor find a similar size of land with such a large variety of physical and man-made environment. It is this tremendous variety of landscape that satisfies all needs and tastes. The visitors can visit archaeological sites and museums, popular neighborhoods and folk-art museums, basilicas and Byzantine frescoed churches, traditional houses and wine-presses. They can walk over cobbled streets and medieval bridges, or they can admire the large wine jars of the last two centuries, currently placed in the house yards for decorative purposes. They can take part in local festivals and dance contests, or they can watch or participate in the citrus, olive and grape gathering. Yet, if they like isolation, trekking, or countryside exploration, there are unspoilt areas, nature trails, large expanses of forest land and small, declining villages preserving their genuine customs and habits, particularly their hospitality. It is not surprising that the fruitful Greek imagination, wise and infallible in all its creative conceptions, chose out of all islands, Cyprus, as the birthplace of the Goddess of Love and Beauty, a symbolical realization of the island’s natural beauties and its poetic, romantic environment.

This guide, published by SELAS, aims at presenting to the visitors of Cyprus the physical and cultural heritage of the island.

Extract from  the Touring Guide of Cyprus published by SELAS PUBLICATIONS

The rich natural vegetation of Cyprus is explained by its geographical position among three continents. The flora may be divided into four broad categories: forests, maquis, garrigue and herbaceous plants.  The forest occupy 1.591,13 sq. km and represent 17.2% of the total area of the island. The main forest trees are the wild pine (Pinus brutia), the Troodos pine  (Pinus nigra) and the cedars (Cedrus brevifolia) which are found in the Cedar Valley, Tripylos and other places.  On the igneous slopes grow mainly golden oaks (Quercus alnifolia) and strawberry shrubs (Arbutus unedo), while the mountain valleys carry hardwood species, such as plane trees, alder and maple. In the coastal areas, as in Akamas, junipers predominate.  The maquis vegetation which grows mainly on siliceous soils, incudes plants such as rose laurel, arbutus, myrtle rosemary, etc.  The garrigue which is a scrub vegetation grows mainly on limestone soils and includes plants like lentisk, thyme and capes, as well as other aromatic xerophytes.  The herbaceous plants are medium-sized with soft stems which become dry during certain seasons and are used for animal feeding.  The same factors that influence the flora of Cyprus are responsible for the fauna of Cyprus. The leading special of present- day fauna are the tame animals.  The moufflon, which has been living n the forests of Cyprus since ancient times, is a variety of wild sheep and is currently the only large wild animal in the island.  In addition, Cyprus has a great variety of insects and mites.  The position of the island between the relatively cold North-European countries and the warm countries of the African continent renders Cyprus an ideal stopover for migratory birds, particularly during the autumn, winter and spring months. Larnaka and Limassol lakes, for instance, attract a great number of migratory birds. The coastal waters of the island have a variety of fish, while crabs and sponges and certain Echinodermata are also found.

Extract from  the Touring Guide of Cyprus published by SELAS PUBLICATIONS

Ancient writers, present-day historians, philologists, linguists and other researchers have been arguing concerning the origin of the name of KYPROS (Cyprus). The most dominant interpretations are the following ones:

(a) From a plan, called kypros (henna). For a long time, it was believed that Cyprus  obtained its name from a shrub called kypros of henna (Lawsonia alba.) Though this plant is native to North Africa, Arabia, Persia and India, it was never plethoric in Cyprus and even today scarcely  this shrub can be found.  It is unlikely that a relatively large island with a long history and a civilization dating back to a few millenia got its name from a non-native shrub.

(b) From a town of Cyprus name Kypros. According to Onorios and Isodoros, the name is due to a town lying between Kyrenia and Akanthou in the northern part of Cyprus.  However, such a town has never been unearthed not has historically been ascertained that there was an important town by this name. 

(c) From Kypris. A number of ancient writers use the adjective “Kypris” for Aphrodite, while Homer calls Aphrodite Kypris.  Though a few writers underline that Kypros (Cyprus) owns its name to Kypris, nevertheless it is Kypris that has derived its name from Kypros, since Kypris was the Goddess of Kypros (Cyprus).

(d) From Kypros the son or daughter of Kinyras

(e) From copper. The Bronze period in Cyprus starts from 2500 B.C. and continues until 1050 B.C.  During this period the production and exploitation of copper brought about a true revolution in  everyday life and economy of Cyprus.  Cyprus, on account of copper, became well known in the then known world.  The strategic position of Cyprus and the production of copper made Cyprus a pole of attraction for the different countries of the world.  Among those who were lured by the copper trade of Cyprus, were the Myceneans (Achaians), who settled in Cyprus in the 14th century B.C. and thereafter Hellenised the island. The name Kypros appeared not as late as the Homeric time (8th century B.C.). There is also another interpretation that copper took its name from Kypros (Cyprys).

Extract from  the Touring Guide of Cyprus published by SELAS PUBLICATIONS

It is currently believed that the most conspicuous geological feature of Cyprus is the collision of the Euro-Asian and African tectonic plates with look place about 80 million years ago.  About 25 million years ago, during the Lower Miocene era, the igneous complex of Troodos constituted an isle, while the Mesaoria plain, to the north, and the Pentadaktylos or Kerynia range, further north, were under the sea.  By the end of the Miocene era, about 11 million years ago, the Pentadaktylos started elevating above the sea, while the Mesaoria plain remained under the sea, to appear much later during the Pleistocene era, about one million years ago. All other details of the geological history of Cyprus, particularly those concerning the coastline, were formed later.  It is this tempestuous geological history which is responsible for a great variety of rocks: igneous, metamorphic and sedimentary, hard and soft, fractured and unaltered, of different colour and texture, now at a small distance from each other on the island’s surface. The present topography of Cyprus can be sub-divided into five morphological regions:

  1. Kerynia or Pentadactylos range. This is the northern mountain chain of Cyprus, appearing as a narrow arc-like strip of land.  The highest summit, Kyparissovouno, reaches a height of 1024 meters and is made up of relatively hard limestones.
  2. The ophiolite massif of Troodos.  The central-western part of Cyprus is occupied by the igneous massif of Troodos.  The resistant igneous rocks of this mountain block (dunnites, serpentinite, gabbros, diabase, etc.)
  3. The hills around the igneous massif of Troodos and south of the Kerynia range.  They extend mainly east, south and west of the ophiolite complex of Troodos and consist mainly of chalks. They give rise to a rounded, bare, white landscape, under dry-fed cultivations, particularly vineyards.
  4. Central plain. The central plain of Cyprus, often known as Mesaoria, lies between the two mountains and has a very low altitude which does not  exceed 180 meters a.s.l. close to Nicosia.  It consists of sediments which have been transported and deposited by steams in recent geological times from the Troodos and the Kerynia ranges.
  5. Coastal Plains. Almost around Cyprus appear narrow coastal plains which in fact are raised beaches.  In the north is the coastal plain of Kerynia which is very narrow but with scenic laced beaches.  To the south is the plain of Larnaka lying below 100 meters a.s.l. and composed of alluvium and terrace deposits of recent geological formation.  The most important geomorphological feature is the Salt Lake separated from the sea by porous deposits. The coastal plain of Limassol, lying below 200m, occupies mainly the Akrotiri peninsula with extensions to Pissouri -Avdimou to the west and small areas east of Amathous.  The most conspicuous geomorphological feature of the region is the Akrotiri Lake. The coastal plain of Chrysochou extends east and west of Polis and includes part of the narrow Chrysochou valley to the south.

Extract from  the Touring Guide of Cyprus published by SELAS PUBLICATIONS

The Laona plateau includes Kathikas, Pano and Kato Arodes, Ineia, Drousia, Kritou Tera, Androlikou, and Fasli, all villages of unparalleled natural and cultural wealth.

The virgin forest of Akamas is in the northwest of the plateau, the coastal plain of Chrysochous is in the north, the tree-lined valley of Chrysochous is in the east, and the northern part of the coastal plain of Pafos is in the west.

A winding asphalt road follows the ridge of Kathikas, Arodes, Ineia and Drousia, as mentioned in historical texts (see Jane Ferjwer, 1995, “Ancient Akamas”, page 103, “road 12b ridge way road from Ineia to ridge of Akamas”); part of it was used by the Romans. Travelling along this road towards the villages of Laona, you can see an exceptional landscape with vineyards, legumes, almond trees, carob trees, and olive trees. Natural vegetation coexists with century-old terebinth trees, whose dense branches and foliage are home to several endemic and migratory birds.

Despite the modernization of the area with the development of autonomous facilities, contemporary buildings, agrotourism accommodations, and restaurants, the distinctive identity of Laona has not altered, when compared to other rural areas of the country. The traditional houses, remnants of the old original local houses that had two rooms, arches, wooden roofs, and stone ovens in the courtyard, coexist with today’s modernized buildings. You can still see villagers riding donkeys, the traditional vine harvest, the preparation of ‘palouze’ and “soutzoukos”, the customs of Easter, and flocks of sheep and goats grazing in the valleys of the region.

The geomorphology and geology of the settlement is rich, with a terrain dissected by many creeks, hills, steep slopes and valleys. Its rich geodiversity comprises limestone, sandstone, chalk, marl, lava, serpentinite and an array of other allochthonous rocks of the Mamonia complex.

Although the village is located on the ridge of the plateau and the view is unobstructed in many directions, you must climb to the highest peak of the beautiful conical hill to the northwest of the village, known as “Vouni of Ineia/Vouni tis Ineias”, to enjoy the uninterrupted view of the surrounding area. The elevated hill, with the chapel of Agios Georgios, offers the dominant view of the area. The mountain of Ineia, otherwise known as “Vouni of Agios Georgios/Vouni tou Ai Giorkou”, which is situated on deep-water sediments like radiolarites and clays embedded with quartz sandstones, extends to an altitude of 668m above sea level and is the highest point in the entire Akamas peninsula.

However, the most impressive elements of this area are the imposing rocks of quartz sandstone, such as “Konneftis”, “Gerakoptera” and many other landforms, which are an important habitat for birdlife. Up until the end of the last century, these peculiar geophysical features were home to flocks of vultures, which unfortunately have almost disappeared. Today they have been replaced by corvids, such as Jackdaws (Corvus monedula) as well as Rock doves (Columba livia), various birds of prey, like peregrines (Falco peregrinus), kestrels (Falco tinnunculus), and Barn owls (Tyto alba). The above landforms are also probably the most important destinations for athletes and amateur climbers in Cyprus.

Briton George Jeffery mentioned in his book “A Description of the Historic Monuments of Cyprus”, 1918, that there may have been a 16th century observatory in this location, as the place is ideal for overlooking the coast.

This is confirmed by several ancient maps, like Ortelius’s map “Cyprus Insula Nova Descript” (Antwerp, 1573), Vincenzo Maria Coronelli’s map “Acamantis Insula, hoggidi Cipro” (Venice, 1689) and others, where there is mention of the “Igna” settlement (now Ineia), along with mention of the word “Quadria”, meaning Observatory. In fact, these maps also mention a settlement named “Ara”, probably referring to today’s Lara.

From the Guide Exploring Ineia and the Beaches of Lara.
The book is available at the Turtle Museum in the village of Inia.

A visit to Stavros tis Psokas is recommended for those who like to get acquainted with the mountainous forested landscape of Cyprus and particularly those who like to see on the spot moufflon’s, a unique endemic species of the sheep family.  The visitor can approach Stavros tis Psokas through the village of Lysos.  Though the distance on the map appears to be short, nevertheless, the time required is rather long, since the traveller must follow earthen, meandering, often narrow roads.  The road is, however, hard and resistant, as it lies on igneous rocks. The dominant forest tree throughout the route is the pine and the golden oak.  Wild olive trees appear in some areas while the plane trees grow in deep valleys. On the way to Stavros tis Psokas the traveller might be lucky to meet groups of moufflon. 

Stavros tis Psokas is a forest settlement, with filed, steep pitched houses made of wood, including guest houses for those who would like to spend a few nights in the Station. 

The environment at Stavros, amid the lush vegetation of pines, chestnut and cypress trees, next to cader, golden oak and maple is very pleasant, quiet and cool, particularly in the worm summer days.  In an enclosure the visitor can see the moufflon, the national animal of Cyprus. A few deer, kept for acclimatization in enclosures, can also been seen.  They are beautiful, fast running animals with the males having deciduous antlers. The deers, as historically know, used to live in Cyprus up to the Middle Ages.  They were abundant in almost all the forests of Cyprus. A few trails have been set up for those who would like to combine the visit with walking amid a cool, refreshing, forested landscape.

Moufflon

Moufflon is an old as the first inhabitants of Cyprus or the first Neolithic settlements of the island.  In Neolithic times it was hunted and caught for its meat as well as for its bones. Later on, particularly in the Hellenistic-Roman time, its presence is evidenced by the mosaics of Pafos.  In the Middle Ages it was the game of the noble Frankish ruling class.

In 1939, the Forest of Pafos, where the animals live, was declared a reserve area. The moufflon has been used on stamps, coins, posters, etc. Though in the past moufflons   could be encountered in the Troodos Forest, currently they are confined to the Forest of Pafos.  There is a seasonal movement to higher areas of the forest in summer and to the lower in winter.  Its pale brown hair protects it from the enemy, as it resembles the colour of the natural vegetation. The moufflon belongs to the sheep family with the male having horns like those of a ram, and the female bearing no horns.  The animals live from 15 to 20 years and are very elegant, powerful and handsome. As soon as they feel the presence of the man they disappear. Normally they appear in groups of five or six

Extract from  the Touring Guide of Pafos published by SELAS PUBLICATIONS LTD

Avakas gorge, is about 2 km long originating at Koloni, west of Arodes settlement and ending up in Toxeftra.  The gorge is the combined product of valley deepening, the rising of the land in relation to the sea and the subsequent rejuvenation of the river system by deepening vertically the pre-existing river valley.

If a visitor wishes to explore the two km gorge, walking is recommended from Koloni (Arodes). If, however, one wishes to see the mouth of the gorge only, then the visit can be accomplished from Toxeftra in Pegia, near the sea.   Exploring the gorge from Arodes, one can walk along the deep, steep sided valley with cliffs on both sides, at points reaching the height of almost a hundred meters. Huge rocks, which feel from the sides, blocked the valley, while elsewhere the water of the stream disappears to reappear further west. 

You encounter arches and caves, while some hollows on the stream bed fill with water even in summer. There is a rich variety of flora, such as poplar, cypress, wild carob and olive trees, lentisk trees, gorge, terebinth, thyme, rockrose, bramble and oleander. The fauna consists of foxes, wild pigeons, partridges, a few hares and other migratory or endemic birds. A few night birds and some serpents are also present. In the past vultures lived on the steep limestone cliffs, but have now abandoned the place. 

Suitable boots are required as well as a camera. The exploration of the gorge is not recommended in winter months when the river is impassable. The mystery that accompany the passage of the gorge make the exploration very challenging.

Extract from  the Touring Guide of Pafos published by SELAS PUBLICATIONS LTD

Akamas, situated to the extreme north-west part of Pafos, often referred to as Akamas Peninsula, is a rugged, wild and attractive area with unspoilt beaches and rocky coastline.  Its flora is undisturbed with some rare plant species. However, Akamas is not simply a natural region with special geology, geomorphology and natural vegetation, but a very interesting cultural region as well with a history dating back to a few thousand years.  This pristine area, where man lived since the Chalcolithic period, has been frequently looted and attacked by Arab raids, particularly in the seventh century A.D., a fact which forced the local inhabitants to move inland leaving behind villages, hamlets and chapels.

Akamas together with the forest of Pafos, particularly Stavros tis Psokas, are popular destinations for tourists, particularly those seeking tranquillity and peace as well as scientists (botanists, geographers, geologists, ornithologists, etc), but also artists and writers. Furthermore, Akamas is a stopover place for millions of migratory birds on their route from Europe to Africa and vice versa.

There are many interpretations concerning the etymology of Akamas, the most prevalent of which is that of Akamas, the son of Theseus, who arrived in Cyprus after the Trojan war and founded Akamantis, a town in the Akamas region, still unearthed.

Geology

The geology of Akamas is rather complex, while the rocks are quite varied. In fact, in Akamas the visitor finds rocks of the ophiolithic complex of Troodos, a large variety of sedimentary rocks as well as rocks of the Mamonia Complex.  The ridge of the peninsula coincides with serpentinised rocks fringed on the west by gabbros, plagiogranites as well as diabase. Further west, lavas, mainly basalts, even not continuous, occupy a significant part of the peninsula.  The most significant sedimentary rocks are the reef limestone, particularly on the Lara “Salt Lake”, a few bentonites and sandstone of Kannaviou formation, the limestone of Koronia, gravels and sands on the terraced beaches and a few alluvium deposits.  Terrace deposits, thought interrupted, extend from Lara to the cape of Akamas,

However, the Mamonia complex is the most interesting feature of the geology of Akamas. They are allochthonous igneous and sedimentary rocks of an unknown age.  The most important of these rocks are thin bedded radiolarian cherts, siltstones, mudstones, limestones, calcarenites, quartzitic sandstones and grey-green sandstones with fossil remains. Besides, a few metamorphic rocks can be found close to the Baths of Aphrodite, consisting of schists, quartzite red phyllites, marbles etc. The specialists who visit Akamas are more interested in the ophiolithic complex of the region which, in essence, is a miniature of the ophiolithic complex of Troodos. However, the relationship of these two complexes is not yet abundantly clear.

Minerals

Magnesite is one of the ores that were extracted and exported about 75 years ago.  Magnesia is the locality of the abandoned mine. The visitor can still see shafts and kilns where in the past a mining activity was thriving.

Copper and iron deposits are present in the peninsula of Akamas, though not sufficient to be exploited. Most of the bentonitic deposits are situated outside the actual Akamas region, while marble are limited in quantity. Even reef limestone, of exceptional quality, lies to the east of the region, in the area of Androlikou. Besides, “black earth” was also extracted and exported abroad a few decades ago.

Scenery and Landscape

The geology of Akamas, particularly the presence of a large variety of rocks as well as their structure, has greatly affected the scenery of Akamas.

In fact, a ridge with a NW-SE direction divides the peninsula of Akamas, particularly the Forest of Akamas, into two parts with a number of streams flowing west.  This ridge coincides with an anticline following the same direction. Relief reaches 494m at Vlambouros, NW of Fasli and 428 at Mavri Shinia, north of Smigies.  Due to the streams which dissect the landscape to the west, a number of tiny deep valleys and gorges have been formed, while marine terraces, though narrow, have been formed, currently followed by an earthen road. The same marine terraces appear to the east reaching the Baths of Aphrodite.  Akamas is considered to be the most pristine region of Cyprus.

Extract from  the Touring Guide of Pafos published by SELAS PUBLICATIONS LTD

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